Monzeler Katzen, Riesling, Grosses Gewächs, 2022

A recent addition to the Haag range, Kätzchen is a large vineyard at around 80 hectares, sat directly above the Paulinshofberg, of which there are only two to three hectares of genuine interest. It’s from here that Haag has been beavering away at the small, weathered slate soil to produce a wine of quality. Until this year, the wine had only been sold in Germany. A lean, focused style with attractive blue slate notes with hints of spearmint and cool, crunchy fruits. Left unchecked, the soil is more powerful versus the Juffer and Juffer Sonnenuhr, so Oliver has fermented it drier, to just 4g residual, favouring a neat, pared back style. Ageing is carried out in German fuder.