Château Le Gay, Pomerol,

Coffee bean, blackberry and cocoa powder, with grip, confidence and powerful slate crushed rock. A yield of 35hl/ha, vinified in new oak barrels. Henri Parent owner (he also, by the way, bought an organic truffle orchard in the Dordogne in this vintage), Michel Rolland consultant. Expect levels of Cabernet Franc to rise over the next few years.

Deep garnet-purple in color, the 2020 Le Gay is closed to begin, needing a fair bit of swirling to unlock notes of crushed black and red berries, stewed plums, and fruitcake, plus hints of underbrush, sauteed herbs, and graphite. The full-bodied palate is densely laden with black fruit preserves, framed by firm, grainy tannins and soft acidity, finishing long and decadent.

The 2020 Le Gay was an impressive Pomerol when tasted from barrel. Now, in bottle, it has a wonderful, exquisitely-defined bouquet with perfumed blackberry and briary, incense and light pencil lead aromas. It's quite understated for Le Gay, yet blossoms in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with quite grainy tannins. Well-balanced, fresh, hints of licorice and brine towards a very saline finish. There is an edginess to this wine that I like, but it needs several years in bottle.