Maximin Grunhauser, Alte Reben, Feinherb,

This year, there is an “Alte Reben” bottling – sourced overwhelmingly from the Abtsberg – that’s legally trocken, albeit with around eight grams of residual sugar. Much of the same snappy, bright lime, apple and white currant present in this year’s “Monopol” Riesling are also on display here, but with a greater sense of midpalate richness, even a hint of textural creaminess, in counterpoint with the zesty, tangy, crunchy fruit. Alcohol of 12.5% reinforces a sense of stuffing, yet the invigorating, refreshing finish evinces a delightful sense of lift to accompany its sheer penetration.